As I write this on the day after Thanksgiving, across thousands of American kitchens an aroma will be rising which should be familiar to Indians, though in truth most of us will have no idea what it is. It is the aroma of thousands of bottles of curry powder, some lamentably ancient and containing what will be by now the equivalent of mildly flavoured sawdust, because it is only on this annual occasion that they are opened. It is the time for that great American ritual – the making of the turkey leftovers curry.
By chance this year’s turkey curry cooking was preceded by another high profile American presentation of Indian flavours, at President Obama’s State Dinner for Prime Minister Manmohan Singh. These dinners traditionally feature American food, not that of the guest country, but the Obamas shook things up by featuring curried prawns and a few other Indian touches. Perhaps they should have chosen turkey curry, as a dish that is nominally Indian inspired, but in reality American. Turkey occasionally features in Indian food, like with turkey varuval from Chettinad, but mostly we, quite correctly, leave the large and tasteless bird alone.
But tradition demands that Americans eat them, and despite the many ways devised to try and make them tasty (the current favourite technique is brining, which as someone pointed out, simply replaces any natural flavour with salt; it tastes good, since humans like salt, but you’d get the same satisfaction from a bowl of chips). Since it’s probably not possible to make regular turkey tasty there must be many who would rather skip the main meal and go straight to leftover curry the next day. This year his New York Times column Mark Bittman, who has become the current generation’s favourite food guru with his book How To Cook Everything, advised making a turkey and spinach curry.
Using turkey in this way though is not American in origin, but more likely British, and for Christmas. As
Charles Dickens’ Christmas Carol demonstrates, the habit of cooking turkey for Christmas really took off in the Victorian era – just the time when using curry powder also became common, thanks to the many returnees from the British Raj.
Isabella Beeton’s famous Book of Household Management, written 17 years after The Christmas Carol, takes a Christmas turkey dinner for granted, but notes that “the breast is the only part which is looked on as fine in a turkey, the legs being very seldom cut off...” Instead she recommends they are later reused in the kitchen as “a special attraction at a bachelor’s supper-table – we mean devilled; served in this way, they are especially liked and relished.”
Devilled is a culinary term that means highly spiced and it seems to have cropped up sometime in the 18th century, significantly at the time the East India Company started taking over India. This was the era of the ‘nabob’, Company traders who had made themselves hugely wealthy in India and came back to Britain with an Indian taste for spicy food – or perhaps even more. Just as the super spicy vindaloo and phal curries of British Indian restaurants has little to do with India, devilled foods also seem to have become a sort of macho British spice trip if this recipe from William Kitchiner’s Cook’s Oracle in 1845 is to be believed (this is courtesy the excellent Old Foodie blog):
“The diables au feu d’enfer, or dry devils, are usually composed of the broiled legs and gizzards of poultry,
fish-bones, or biscuits; and if pungency alone can justify their appellation, never was the title better deserved, for they are usually prepared without any other attention than to make them “hot as their native element” and any one that can swallow them without tears in his eyes, need be under no apprehension of the pains of futurity.” The recipe that follows calls for salt, chilli powder and curry powder in equal parts, with double the amount of powdered truffles, which must have made for some explosive, if rather muddled, aromas.
Devil was then a macho term for curry, and still survives in dishes like devilled eggs, where boiled eggs are split and the yolks mashed with curry powder, Worcestershire sauce (another nabob invention) and butter, and piped back into the halved whites. But curry also started to be used for a more literally devilish purpose. Over time quite a few people have found that the plentiful use of spice can be used for far less pleasant cover-ups than just leftover meat. For example, in 2003 Dena Thompson, dubbed the “Black Widow” was jailed for life in the UK after being convicted for killing her husband with mixing an overdose of antidepressants in his favourite spicy curry.
In October this year, Gary Stewart from Manchester was arrested for attempting to kill his neighbours after a long feud by mixing slug pellets, a pesticide, in a takeaway Indian curry he’d brought for them as a ‘peace offering’. But the prize for curry poisoning must go to Masumi Hayashi in Japan who tried to kill over 100 people by putting arsenic in a pot of curry that was being cooked for a communal feast. I can’t think of anything quite on this scale in India. The sort of poisonings one tends to find here are more on the lines of
drugged biscuits to knock people out on trains, and then rob them.
As it happens, perhaps the most famous use of spiked curry was in a similar case – but fictional. This is in ‘Silver Blaze’, a Sherlock Holmes story about a stolen race-horse, which is best known for Holmes noting of “the curious incident of the dog at night time”. When it’s pointed out to Holmes that the stable dog did nothing, he replies: “"That was the curious incident.” Holmes’ point is that dog would have barked at a thief, but didn’t because it was his master, the stable-owner, who was stealing the horse.
But this case could equally be said to have turned on the curried mutton, which was served to the stable-hand who was supposed to be guarding the horse. The mutton has been spiked with opium for the boy goes to sleep, and it is alleged that an outsider had spiked it. But Holmes notes that “Powdered opium is by no means tasteless... A curry was exactly the medium which would disguise this taste.”
And since the only people who could have chosen to make curry for dinner were the stable-owner or his wife, the case was proven. As far as I remember, this is the only example of Indian food in a Sherlock Holmes story, and a good example of the interesting uses that curry can be put to. But don’t let this put you off your meal, just in case you’re eating post-Thanksgiving turkey curry today!